MORE LESSONS

After 55 years of very active car collecting--much to the chagrin of my parents; I have learned a few things I would like to share.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find,  and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts  removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.

Car lessons learned

I got my first car when I was 11 (a wrecked, rolled and burned 1955 Porsche Speedster). I spent almost 5 years restoring it. I had to learn German to understand the manuals. This was at the very beginning of the Porsche "culture" in Southern California. I learned alot--
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.

Old Car and Classic Car Touring

I have been a car collector for 56 years, as of 2013, since I was 11. I always enjoyed the DRIVING of my cars, and the associated experiences. When I was 16, I fondly remember driving South on Harbor Blvd. or Beach Blvd. to go the beach, in Southern California. I remember stopping along the journey and getting a GREAT homemade burrito or a fantastic hamburger at a little place that had only one location. I also remember so well, leaving my employer, Disneyland (it was never a job or work), and driving to the South East corner of Harbor and Ball, to join other car collectors, and where I had THE BEST banana malt.

Fast forward to the 1970's when I was almost an adult, and had acquired a "collector car". Now car clubs existed without the aluminum plaques in the rear window. I joined CCCA, RROC, and PCA. TOURING became common. A day or weekend trip became routine, with folks that shared the same passion for "our" marque. Picnics became a time to enjoy simple food, each other, and discuss the minutiae of our marque.

By the late 70's I had developed a quirk: I would always dress in the same color, and same period as the car I was driving. I have photos to prove it!! If I changed cars-I changed clothes. Then I created a special picnic basket, for each car, consistent with the color and period. Some folks kidded me, and others, I think envied the STYLE. There was just one dilemma: the choice in cuisine. Kentucky fried chicken, El Pollo Loco, anything that required cold was relegated to the cheap styrafoam cooler. Can you relate to all of this? So, I was personally frustrated that I had UNIQUE cars, on special journeys, and was eating worse than when I was at home. SOMETHING is wrong!!

NOW I have discovered DINING, on my tours, my travels and even in my living room. I have discovered flavored oils; grapeseed and olive; as well as balsamic vinegar. Great with bread as an appetizer. The vinegars are great drizzled over watermelon or other fruits. Then there are pestos and tapenades. Super to enhance a tuna sandwich, pasta, or any chicken dish. The flavored salts and peppers are a must. The flavors explode on raw tomatoes. I found a complete selection of these gourmet quality products at The Posh Gourmet . They are all touring friendly. Additionally I found numerous recipes that will enhance a tour, as well as a special evening at home.

Lastly the accessories. I found a personal disconnect, driving my Pierce-Arrow, Cadillac, Royce, and having the cheap, common cooler. The Posh Gourmet has a fine selection of quality, insulated coolers with appropriate utensils for any picnic or tour, complete with decorative wine bottle stoppers and real cloth napkins.

Now I have it all: The motorcar, the long-time personal relationships, the accessories consistent with the event, including sartorial presence, and to really enhance the experience; exquisite dining accessories and cuisine. Along with the True Love of my life, Sandie, How could things be better?

The Pierce Arrow Dinner Plate Saga

In about 1992 I responded to an ad from a chap in Florida who had 6 Pierce dinner plates for sale. I called him. He wanted to sell me two; not 6; He required a certified check. He told me he was a distant relative of one of the Pierce Family. I told him that I would take all six. He told me that if he sold me six; he would not have enough for anyone else. He had not heard of PAS; and was not a member. I explained that I could buy them, and make them available to PAS; members at same $$. He said that Pierce had gone bankrupt; by trusting people. I replied that it was just a little more complicated than that; and that CAR owners; like me; were the solution; NOT the cause of the failure. We went around and around. He insisted on a certified check; I told him I would send a personal check--and he could wait until it cleared. He said that he did not know me; and could not trust me. He went on about how his ancestors had gotten taken. Anyhow, I did not get the plates. SURPRISE!!! At our monthly local PAS lunch; I recounted the story. Hilda Blonder said "Roy, why don't you make them". I mentioned that I knew zip about this process. She said that I could probably find somebody to do it. So I started a journey.
After Hilda Suggested I do the dinnerplates--I looked into it: a minimum of green unfired plates is 120.! I would have to design the logo ("8" and "12""), and have special porcelain decals made.
Then I would have to apply the decals. I then decided to that I would have to apply a gold edge. So I had to make a precision turntable, and learn and practice a 3mm application of a liquid gold, using a special phenolic applicator; to the edge of the plate. I actually sat down on my kitchen floor; and applied the gold. I think it took 20 hours. Then I had to have them fired. I could not find anybody to fire that small of a quantity. SO I went to a commercial kiln in Torrance. I talked to the owner. I learned that they fired plates 12 hours a day, Monday thru Thursday. I asked him if I could rent his shop Sunday night, when they had to heat up the kilns anyway. He finally agreed; I rented a truck to haul the plate. I arrived about 8 PM Sunday night; loaded the plates carefully into the first kiln;--fired the 1st kiln to 1350; for 6 hours, then moved them to cooling kiln for 4 hours. During the firing period, I swept, cleaned, dusted--the shop, office and heads. The owner came in at 7am Monday; found it all spotless--and that I had followed his instructions. We had to wait for final cooling, I boxed all 120 finished plates up. He asked me when I wanted to use his shop again--at no charge. I spared you a lot of the details on the  research, and the false starts. YOUR'E welcome.

Pierce Arrow Engine Transfer Story

The transfers--are applied to the oil valley covers for 1929-31 cars and  to each side of the air cleaner for 1932-38 cars. J.B. Nethercutt--FAMOUS car collector--was acquiring and restoring lots of cars in the 60's. He had to have made alot of items--for his cars. One item was the Pierce solvent transfers. Decals are applied with water. Transfers use a chemical--to release the transfer from the paper--and then to SEAL the transfer. The transfer becomes more resistant to heat and oil--then a simple decal. After he finished his Pierces, J.B. generously donated the rest of the transfer inventory to CCCA, to sell. I became active in PAS in the 80's, and bought the 30 or so transfers from CCCA, to make them available to PAS (since some PIERCE/PAS members did not belong to CCCA). Subsequently I learned that the transfers were no good. THEY wqere TOO OLD, and would not adhere. The transfer manufacturing process was all but outlawed, due to environmental laws (in CA.). So I decided to make them from mylar. I photo-engraved a mylar strip, using original J.B. art. I made a die. I rented a 2 ton cutting press. I hand stamped each transfer. So I have personally stamped, and inspected each of the 3 color transfers. I have very few left, after 27 years. I no longer reproduce anything. I have observed that an item gets made when an individual needs the item, and the tries to amortize the research and costs, by selling extras. I am the exception to this. All my projects came to me serendipity. I took them on because of the challenge; to learn something, and the opportunity to give back to the hobby. About 15 years ago---I figured out the hours I have spent on making lenses, transfers, tool kit inserts, lighters, brass light repair and a few other things. I have spent over 8000 hours, since 1982. I have netted about $1.12 an hour; after mold, mfg costs, postage, phone calls. Not including gas or utilities. I have only used one of the parts I made, for one of my cars: (a tool kit insert for my 1953 RR S/W). The rest of these projects were to help my fellow car guys.

THE FOLLOW-UP

Last year a PAS guy returned a pair of the old solvent transfers to me--and demanded a refund.
I BOUGHT, with my own $$$, all of the transfers that had aged out-- (from CCCA )
and destroyed them. I never sold even ONE solvent transfer.
He called me a liar.
I just asked him to look at the backside where it stated "MEYER PRINTING Co."
That company has not been in business for 25 years.

I wrote Larry Symons; 2 times (THE CCCA project guy); "out of an extra abbundance of caution" to make SURE that CCCA did not:
A. Have the solvent transfers
B. Has not made substitutes

Larry, God Bless Him, did not have a clue what I was inquiring about (the transfers were LONG gone before Bill transferred the duty to Larry).

Pre War Reproduction Lenses

About 1988, Irv Blonder asked me to look into making repro HL lenses, and another SO CAL chap to do the tail lenses, for Pierce Arrow. I started to gather data---learning that most of the front lenses were unique to Pierce. I started to gather part numbers. I learned that there were 46 different patterns for the front lenses, 1929 thru 1938. I ran ads asking about interest--demand: I got little feed back. I decided that glass was prohibitive--$5000-$10,000 per mold--plus production. I learned from IRV--that quality in ASIA--was poor--and long lead times. So I started to investigate polymers. I spent 2 years--trying 52 polymers--to meet all the criteria: clarity, correct size and optics, color stability, mold cost, production cost and proper EMQ. I spent 1900 hrs--in research. I had to create a correct part number list. I had to buy or borrow ORIGINAL patterns for molds. I had to learn mold making. Then I had to learn lense making. After over 2 years--of enthusiastic effort--I perfected a methamethacrylate. It has great optics, is UV stable, no shrink--reasonable cost--and low EMQ. So I made front lenses. There was some demand for 1933-34 M-B lenses (I have made about 30 pair)---very little demand for some (1929 McKee). I ended up making all front lenses--for all Pierce cars, from 1924 thru 1938.After about 15 years--the demand has stopped--so I ended the project. Some people were tire kickers--who might need them in the future--I decided this is not my lifes work--and I do not have the space to inventory molds and lenses. The project is over--most molds gone, a few lensesare left. During this process--the other chap decide not to make the tail lenses--so I stepped in to do that--.A completely different set of problems. Only 14 patterns, but 3 colors. There were no UV problems--but there were color matching---and finish concerns. Again I bought or borrowed ALL the rear lense patterns, and started to make molds. Then I started to work with the polymers, and dyes--to create a superior lense. The demand has waned, and now this project has ended. No more tail lenses to be made. A few remain. I also made lenses for other MARQUES--by request (CADILLAC LaSalle, PACKARD, CORD, Rolls Royce, DUESENBERG, BENTLEY). Thanks goes to alot of folks--for lending me priceless lenses--and trusting me--and to early collectors; who worked with me when I had clarity problems on early HL lenses. To those tire kickers--who would get back to me---or wanted to shop--I wish good fortune in finding rare items. If the lenses had been available--I would not have spent 8000 hours--over 25 years--doing this project. I only made items--that are UNAVAILABLE elsewhere.

PIERCE-ARROW TAIL LIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

1924-29 “A-Type” Mounted over License Plate
1 Backing plate for 3 buckets; each bucket has 4 rivets
3 Buckets: 2 concentric outer ribs, (outer rib holds the reflector retaining clip). Center bucket, has no reflector, has cutout on bottom for license lens; and “Pierce Arrow TYPE A” etched on top. The 2 outer buckets have reflectors, secured by spiral springs and thin wire clips. Small ferels between buckets protect wiring.
3 Bezels Flat outer sides, inner ring contains lense, held by heavy snap ring.
3 Lenses Each 2 ½” OD, outer lense is clear back-up; center is plain red night running light; inside lense has “S” License lense is a glass circle.

1931-33 ARROLITE
1 Backing plate: 3 holes for rivets.
3 Buckets with one rib; outer lip of bucket curves in. Reflectors have lip that covers the curved in bucket lip, and held by the bezel. Center bucket is engraved “ARROLITE” on top, and has no reflector. (1931 and 32 have license plate under the light; for 1933, the license plate is over the light, and “ARROLITE” is on same side as license light). THE license light shines upward.
3 Bezels have rolled outer lip.
3 lenses: The outer is clear bullet, with external ribs,backup; center is flat “COARSE” with a dot: the inner is red bullet, with external ribs. There is a mall “stepped” license lense
1933 had an optional right “SALON” tail arm. One red, round plain lense, retained by a chrome inner bezel. (standard on “12”).

1934-38 Integrated
Same configuration on both sides of car. Amber bullet, with external ribs, outside (same shape as 1931-33 bullets, however a different color); one red flat “FINE” pattern on inside, closest to trunk. License lense is 5” long scallop, clipped to inside of tail housing, Triangle chrome piece covers the unit.
1934 836A had unique 1 lense arm on each side.