PRE-WWII GLASS LENS TRIVIA

Prior to 1930, headlight lenses were generally flat, had the same left and right side pattern and very little prism. Twilite and Stabilite made attempts to create prisms. Also, most of the glass contained lead, and manganese, which reacted with UV rays to turn color; generally purple. By 1930 lenses began having optic prisms, and became convex. By 1933 headlight lenses had different left and right patterns to focus the projected light forward, and at a greater distance.

Tail lights, which had a red tint, also reacted to UV rays, but making the lens darker; which reduces visibility.
The function of headlights is to project and illuminate objects in front and to the side of the motorcar.
The function of the smaller (6-8 Watt) tail light, is to glow, to indicate the presence of the motorcar, to the following cars. Also, in that ever important braking event, the brake light glows. Light is NOT intended to be transmitted to the rear to illuminate following objects.

The headlights need to PROJECT light by the use of a 32 Watt bulb or greater, utilizing a focusing reflector, that transmits light, directed by a clear headlight lens with prisms. As the silver reflector ages, it oxidizes, losing efficiency.

I have seen a few people CHROME plate reflectors. Chrome actually absorbs light, not reflect it.
By 1940, the separate bulb/reflector/lens system was replaced by the sealed beam unit. Just a couple of marques and some trucks retained the non-sealed beam system into the 1940's.

MORE LESSONS

After 55 years of very active car collecting--much to the chagrin of my parents; I have learned a few things I would like to share.
1. Never put any tool away until the repair project is OVER. I have often cleaned a tool, and put it away, only to retrieve it again.
2. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS put out blankets, and towels over the bumpers and fenders when removing pre-WWII lenses. NEVER carry them over ANY hard surface. Lenses are one of the few parts that are difficult to find,  and almost impossible to reproduce. Also WASH your hands prior any parts  removal, especially lenses!! GO slow. Have a box handy lined with a TOWEL!!!
3. USE PCL or CLP from Break-Free Products, instead of wd40. PCL FOAMS, and tends to stay, and penetrate. It is usually available in gun stores. The company has missed a great opportunity. They focus on guns--instead of cars. EVEN here in Southern California we have more cars than guns. For 20 years I have tried to get Break-Free to enhance their strategy. I should have bought this division when they moved to Florida years ago. PCL is handy also, around the house, on pesky plumbing fittings. DO not wait--make a note. Search for some NOW, well worth the $12. Send me a Thank You note.
4. Tail lights--for ALL of us with collector cars; Pre-WWII thru the 60's, brake and tail lights are our only protection from SUVS, rice rockets, and tail-gaters with disc brakes. These drivers are oblivious to 6 volts or drum brakes. Driving habits have changed drastically in the last 15 years. Tail lights are taken for granted. They, along with the fuel system and brakes, are the most critical systems. Check the driving lights at night. Check the brake lights from various distances. I marvel at the Rolls Royce and Bentleys from 1956-65, that have cracked, faded or fogged tail lenses. UNBELIEVABLE!!! I get all kinds of stupid responses, that I will spare you. Just look at the size of the lenses, and think of the calamity that is caused if the driver behind you does not see you brake!!! Another swell example are the pre-1934 Pierce-Arrow and Packards.
5. Any repair project: Think, plan, organize. Acquire all of the parts and tools first. Anticipate: will solvent be needed? Will penetrant (PCL) be needed? NOW, when I do any project on my cars, or around the house; I make a list and plan. I review manuals or instruction sheets. My latest projects seem to go faster, with less frustration.
6. When doing a repair that entails more than 1 part: take a photo, or 5. I have given up trying to rely on my memory. If it is a complex rebuild or one that will span days, make notes and bag parts in clear plastic bags, so the re-assembly can be done accurately and efficiently.

Car lessons learned

I got my first car when I was 11 (a wrecked, rolled and burned 1955 Porsche Speedster). I spent almost 5 years restoring it. I had to learn German to understand the manuals. This was at the very beginning of the Porsche "culture" in Southern California. I learned alot--
1. ALWAYS use the proper tool. If it is not handy, go get it or wait.
2. ALWAYS have a designated spot for tools and spares. Nothing is more frustrating than making a project of locating an item, when in the middle of the main repair project. ALWAYS clean the tool BEFORE returning it to its proper place.
3. Always use the proper parts. Too many owners of Rolls Royce, Porsche or Bentley have sought cheaper parts, only to suffer a larger calamity down the road. A good example are rubber seals. There are dozens of rubber compounds: nitriles, vitons, silicones etc. Each is designed and maufactured for specific applications, including heat, exposure to fluids, torque, and compression. I learned alot while I was building data centers, and developing computer systems for Parker Seal in the early 1970's.
4. Quality cars are built to last, and to be repaired. They must be properly maintained. Another example is Rolls Royce. Some owners spent alot of money on the purchase, and just assumed they would last. Therefore maintenance was ignored, or corners were cut. I hear almost daily from car owners, whose cars have deteriorated, far beyond what is necessary. This was caused by poor maintenance, the use of improper parts and fluids. A Silver Shadow can have the brake/leveling system destroyed, by the use of the wrong fuid; resulting in an $8,000 brake job.
5. If you are going to acquire a collector car, JOIN the club BEFORE purchase. Learn about the true idiosyncracies, performance, and costs of that model. The ENTHUSIASTS belong to clubs, and are most knowledgeable. Also, their cars tend to be in better condition; and make better acquisitions.
6. Manuals: a necessary investment that cannot be overstated. Learn about the motorcar, even if you do not do repairs. To become involved and knowledgeable, will encourage the owner to perform more tasks, and will be vital "insurance" when a repair is hired out. The manuals are only worthwile if actually read and used.

Old Car and Classic Car Touring

I have been a car collector for 56 years, as of 2013, since I was 11. I always enjoyed the DRIVING of my cars, and the associated experiences. When I was 16, I fondly remember driving South on Harbor Blvd. or Beach Blvd. to go the beach, in Southern California. I remember stopping along the journey and getting a GREAT homemade burrito or a fantastic hamburger at a little place that had only one location. I also remember so well, leaving my employer, Disneyland (it was never a job or work), and driving to the South East corner of Harbor and Ball, to join other car collectors, and where I had THE BEST banana malt.

Fast forward to the 1970's when I was almost an adult, and had acquired a "collector car". Now car clubs existed without the aluminum plaques in the rear window. I joined CCCA, RROC, and PCA. TOURING became common. A day or weekend trip became routine, with folks that shared the same passion for "our" marque. Picnics became a time to enjoy simple food, each other, and discuss the minutiae of our marque.

By the late 70's I had developed a quirk: I would always dress in the same color, and same period as the car I was driving. I have photos to prove it!! If I changed cars-I changed clothes. Then I created a special picnic basket, for each car, consistent with the color and period. Some folks kidded me, and others, I think envied the STYLE. There was just one dilemma: the choice in cuisine. Kentucky fried chicken, El Pollo Loco, anything that required cold was relegated to the cheap styrafoam cooler. Can you relate to all of this? So, I was personally frustrated that I had UNIQUE cars, on special journeys, and was eating worse than when I was at home. SOMETHING is wrong!!

NOW I have discovered DINING, on my tours, my travels and even in my living room. I have discovered flavored oils; grapeseed and olive; as well as balsamic vinegar. Great with bread as an appetizer. The vinegars are great drizzled over watermelon or other fruits. Then there are pestos and tapenades. Super to enhance a tuna sandwich, pasta, or any chicken dish. The flavored salts and peppers are a must. The flavors explode on raw tomatoes. I found a complete selection of these gourmet quality products at The Posh Gourmet . They are all touring friendly. Additionally I found numerous recipes that will enhance a tour, as well as a special evening at home.

Lastly the accessories. I found a personal disconnect, driving my Pierce-Arrow, Cadillac, Royce, and having the cheap, common cooler. The Posh Gourmet has a fine selection of quality, insulated coolers with appropriate utensils for any picnic or tour, complete with decorative wine bottle stoppers and real cloth napkins.

Now I have it all: The motorcar, the long-time personal relationships, the accessories consistent with the event, including sartorial presence, and to really enhance the experience; exquisite dining accessories and cuisine. Along with the True Love of my life, Sandie, How could things be better?

The Pierce Arrow Dinner Plate Saga

In about 1992 I responded to an ad from a chap in Florida who had 6 Pierce dinner plates for sale. I called him. He wanted to sell me two; not 6; He required a certified check. He told me he was a distant relative of one of the Pierce Family. I told him that I would take all six. He told me that if he sold me six; he would not have enough for anyone else. He had not heard of PAS; and was not a member. I explained that I could buy them, and make them available to PAS; members at same $$. He said that Pierce had gone bankrupt; by trusting people. I replied that it was just a little more complicated than that; and that CAR owners; like me; were the solution; NOT the cause of the failure. We went around and around. He insisted on a certified check; I told him I would send a personal check--and he could wait until it cleared. He said that he did not know me; and could not trust me. He went on about how his ancestors had gotten taken. Anyhow, I did not get the plates. SURPRISE!!! At our monthly local PAS lunch; I recounted the story. Hilda Blonder said "Roy, why don't you make them". I mentioned that I knew zip about this process. She said that I could probably find somebody to do it. So I started a journey.
After Hilda Suggested I do the dinnerplates--I looked into it: a minimum of green unfired plates is 120.! I would have to design the logo ("8" and "12""), and have special porcelain decals made.
Then I would have to apply the decals. I then decided to that I would have to apply a gold edge. So I had to make a precision turntable, and learn and practice a 3mm application of a liquid gold, using a special phenolic applicator; to the edge of the plate. I actually sat down on my kitchen floor; and applied the gold. I think it took 20 hours. Then I had to have them fired. I could not find anybody to fire that small of a quantity. SO I went to a commercial kiln in Torrance. I talked to the owner. I learned that they fired plates 12 hours a day, Monday thru Thursday. I asked him if I could rent his shop Sunday night, when they had to heat up the kilns anyway. He finally agreed; I rented a truck to haul the plate. I arrived about 8 PM Sunday night; loaded the plates carefully into the first kiln;--fired the 1st kiln to 1350; for 6 hours, then moved them to cooling kiln for 4 hours. During the firing period, I swept, cleaned, dusted--the shop, office and heads. The owner came in at 7am Monday; found it all spotless--and that I had followed his instructions. We had to wait for final cooling, I boxed all 120 finished plates up. He asked me when I wanted to use his shop again--at no charge. I spared you a lot of the details on the  research, and the false starts. YOUR'E welcome.

Pierce Arrow Engine Transfer Story

The transfers--are applied to the oil valley covers for 1929-31 cars and  to each side of the air cleaner for 1932-38 cars. J.B. Nethercutt--FAMOUS car collector--was acquiring and restoring lots of cars in the 60's. He had to have made alot of items--for his cars. One item was the Pierce solvent transfers. Decals are applied with water. Transfers use a chemical--to release the transfer from the paper--and then to SEAL the transfer. The transfer becomes more resistant to heat and oil--then a simple decal. After he finished his Pierces, J.B. generously donated the rest of the transfer inventory to CCCA, to sell. I became active in PAS in the 80's, and bought the 30 or so transfers from CCCA, to make them available to PAS (since some PIERCE/PAS members did not belong to CCCA). Subsequently I learned that the transfers were no good. THEY wqere TOO OLD, and would not adhere. The transfer manufacturing process was all but outlawed, due to environmental laws (in CA.). So I decided to make them from mylar. I photo-engraved a mylar strip, using original J.B. art. I made a die. I rented a 2 ton cutting press. I hand stamped each transfer. So I have personally stamped, and inspected each of the 3 color transfers. I have very few left, after 27 years. I no longer reproduce anything. I have observed that an item gets made when an individual needs the item, and the tries to amortize the research and costs, by selling extras. I am the exception to this. All my projects came to me serendipity. I took them on because of the challenge; to learn something, and the opportunity to give back to the hobby. About 15 years ago---I figured out the hours I have spent on making lenses, transfers, tool kit inserts, lighters, brass light repair and a few other things. I have spent over 8000 hours, since 1982. I have netted about $1.12 an hour; after mold, mfg costs, postage, phone calls. Not including gas or utilities. I have only used one of the parts I made, for one of my cars: (a tool kit insert for my 1953 RR S/W). The rest of these projects were to help my fellow car guys.

THE FOLLOW-UP

Last year a PAS guy returned a pair of the old solvent transfers to me--and demanded a refund.
I BOUGHT, with my own $$$, all of the transfers that had aged out-- (from CCCA )
and destroyed them. I never sold even ONE solvent transfer.
He called me a liar.
I just asked him to look at the backside where it stated "MEYER PRINTING Co."
That company has not been in business for 25 years.

I wrote Larry Symons; 2 times (THE CCCA project guy); "out of an extra abbundance of caution" to make SURE that CCCA did not:
A. Have the solvent transfers
B. Has not made substitutes

Larry, God Bless Him, did not have a clue what I was inquiring about (the transfers were LONG gone before Bill transferred the duty to Larry).

Pre War Reproduction Lenses

About 1988, Irv Blonder asked me to look into making repro HL lenses, and another SO CAL chap to do the tail lenses, for Pierce Arrow. I started to gather data---learning that most of the front lenses were unique to Pierce. I started to gather part numbers. I learned that there were 46 different patterns for the front lenses, 1929 thru 1938. I ran ads asking about interest--demand: I got little feed back. I decided that glass was prohibitive--$5000-$10,000 per mold--plus production. I learned from IRV--that quality in ASIA--was poor--and long lead times. So I started to investigate polymers. I spent 2 years--trying 52 polymers--to meet all the criteria: clarity, correct size and optics, color stability, mold cost, production cost and proper EMQ. I spent 1900 hrs--in research. I had to create a correct part number list. I had to buy or borrow ORIGINAL patterns for molds. I had to learn mold making. Then I had to learn lense making. After over 2 years--of enthusiastic effort--I perfected a methamethacrylate. It has great optics, is UV stable, no shrink--reasonable cost--and low EMQ. So I made front lenses. There was some demand for 1933-34 M-B lenses (I have made about 30 pair)---very little demand for some (1929 McKee). I ended up making all front lenses--for all Pierce cars, from 1924 thru 1938.After about 15 years--the demand has stopped--so I ended the project. Some people were tire kickers--who might need them in the future--I decided this is not my lifes work--and I do not have the space to inventory molds and lenses. The project is over--most molds gone, a few lensesare left. During this process--the other chap decide not to make the tail lenses--so I stepped in to do that--.A completely different set of problems. Only 14 patterns, but 3 colors. There were no UV problems--but there were color matching---and finish concerns. Again I bought or borrowed ALL the rear lense patterns, and started to make molds. Then I started to work with the polymers, and dyes--to create a superior lense. The demand has waned, and now this project has ended. No more tail lenses to be made. A few remain. I also made lenses for other MARQUES--by request (CADILLAC LaSalle, PACKARD, CORD, Rolls Royce, DUESENBERG, BENTLEY). Thanks goes to alot of folks--for lending me priceless lenses--and trusting me--and to early collectors; who worked with me when I had clarity problems on early HL lenses. To those tire kickers--who would get back to me---or wanted to shop--I wish good fortune in finding rare items. If the lenses had been available--I would not have spent 8000 hours--over 25 years--doing this project. I only made items--that are UNAVAILABLE elsewhere.

PIERCE-ARROW TAIL LIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

1924-29 “A-Type” Mounted over License Plate
1 Backing plate for 3 buckets; each bucket has 4 rivets
3 Buckets: 2 concentric outer ribs, (outer rib holds the reflector retaining clip). Center bucket, has no reflector, has cutout on bottom for license lens; and “Pierce Arrow TYPE A” etched on top. The 2 outer buckets have reflectors, secured by spiral springs and thin wire clips. Small ferels between buckets protect wiring.
3 Bezels Flat outer sides, inner ring contains lense, held by heavy snap ring.
3 Lenses Each 2 ½” OD, outer lense is clear back-up; center is plain red night running light; inside lense has “S” License lense is a glass circle.

1931-33 ARROLITE
1 Backing plate: 3 holes for rivets.
3 Buckets with one rib; outer lip of bucket curves in. Reflectors have lip that covers the curved in bucket lip, and held by the bezel. Center bucket is engraved “ARROLITE” on top, and has no reflector. (1931 and 32 have license plate under the light; for 1933, the license plate is over the light, and “ARROLITE” is on same side as license light). THE license light shines upward.
3 Bezels have rolled outer lip.
3 lenses: The outer is clear bullet, with external ribs,backup; center is flat “COARSE” with a dot: the inner is red bullet, with external ribs. There is a mall “stepped” license lense
1933 had an optional right “SALON” tail arm. One red, round plain lense, retained by a chrome inner bezel. (standard on “12”).

1934-38 Integrated
Same configuration on both sides of car. Amber bullet, with external ribs, outside (same shape as 1931-33 bullets, however a different color); one red flat “FINE” pattern on inside, closest to trunk. License lense is 5” long scallop, clipped to inside of tail housing, Triangle chrome piece covers the unit.
1934 836A had unique 1 lense arm on each side.

Rolls Royce and Bentley Tools 1946 - 1965

S/W S/D MarkVI R-Type Tool Placement


Under the BONNET:
Next to radiator is brass tecalmit grease gun--placed vertically
next to that is small oiler--vertical

Crank is placed horizontally on top of the wheel well

OIL syringe--large, is on top of wheel well
IN R-Type and S/D the engine crank and syringe are often in the boot

Torch--with chrome bezel is on the firewall, right side

IN THE BOOT:bottle Jack and handle

spare tyre

3 Dunlop tyre irons

Hubcap tool--placed in clips on left side
sometimes on floor; or on side panel. If clip is gone, look for 2 screw holes.

Kinsman Tyre pump, with instructions attached by tan rubber band

Wheelbrace (lugwrench); connected with metric allen screw

TOOL TRAY 7 VariationsEither 17 or 18 tools (early kits did not have Schrader tyre valve tool and have bakelite driver)
3 different screwdrivers: early models had black bakelite handle Britool; later kits had wood handle: short or long.
Basic contents:
“L” shaped sump tool
Plain Schrader script tyre valve tool; 3 way.
2 nested SOE
Inlet tappet with square hole
2 nested DOE
3 ½” double box spanner
Small 3BA/5BA DOE
Small SOE
Delco DOE ignition spanner
Snubnose Lucas pliers
Lucas “91” Girder
Screwdriver
Exhaust valve tool, with 2 opposing openings
Moore and Wright Feeler gauge with 2 clips
Kismet Pressure Gauge—hex, with thump indentation, and tyre valve tool
SOMETIMES a CARB tool
Pink lodge sparkplug CLMP
3 bulbs
Black rubber insert, in a metal tray;
Installed in a locked drawer, or under the seat
These tools are pictured in the left hand column in the picture.

There are 4 distinct toolkits for the 1956 - 1965 Silver Cloud and "S" Series motorcars. This definition will be provided in a separate post. These are pictured in the 3 right hand columns of the picture.

Rolls Royce and Bentley Tool Tray 1956 - 1965

Silver Cloud “S” Tools

(With kit oriented with the driver on the bottom)

(The bottom row in this photo are tool trays for 1946 - 1955 cars)

Britool or Garrington Sump tool-- (hex shape)
Delco (with logo--5 variants) ignition doe with feeler gauge (absent in V8 motorcars)
Moore and Wright 4 blade feeler gauge (absent in V8 motorcars)
The multi-tool—(2 openings on one end, one opening on the other)
Kismet hex pressure gauge with thumb indention and tyre valve tool
Britool or Garrington small af combo—(SOE/SCE) STRAIGHT closed end, to fit insert
The longer combo--same brands as small one
Wilkinsons Pliers—thin snubnose, not bevel nose; to fit the kit
Exhaust valve tool between pliers handles (absent in V8 cars)
Garrington Jackdaw ADJ spanner. (King Dick 8” ONLY is correct in double headlight cars)
Screwdriver boxwood flat bulb handle
Sparkplug spanner should be plain steel, or dull silver cad (spanner was not chrome until S/C III.) ALL 6 cylinder cars have the same insert.
The right hand drive v8, single HL cars have a thinner insert, with a BUMP for the bulbs, and the driver lies flat.
In the LHD 4 headlight cars, there is a rubber plug that replaces the HL pre-focus bulb, since these motorcars have sealbeam.

Rolls Royce and Bentley Lenses 1956 - 1965

All 6 cyl cars had ONE piece tail lenses (S/C and S1)
Amber for HOME cars (RHD)
Red for EXPORT cars (LHD)

ALL double headlight cars (S/C III and S3) had TWO piece lenses
ALL had red bottoms (night running lights)
Home cars had AMBER tops for brake and turn signal
Export cars had red tops

S/C II and S2 came with EITHER configuration

IF you have a RHD HOME car with amber lenses, they MAY not be LEGAL in some states (like Calif and N.Y.)

SOO I need to know
Which car you have
Does it have one or 2 piece tail lenses
What COLOR you want

If you have a RHD and want amber--you might want to check your state laws.

Rolls Royce and Bentley Tail Lense History

1956-65 Rolls Royce Bentley Lense story-a long story---------
Lucas stopped making these in the 80's
they were a cheap poly-------
same polymer as MG--Tr etc

they craze, crack etc--------

LUCAS is NOT in the aftermarket biz---

think about the TOTAL RR/B made 1956-65
one YEAR of MG production!
so dealers had a supply--for awhile

In the early 90's dealers ran out.
A friend, Bill Sundin told me about this, and knew I had made PIERCE-ARROW lenses.
I spent 2 weeks calling RR dealers. Bill was correct.

I had developed a state-of-the-art material

so I made quality lenses-
no shrink
uv stable
will not crack, FADE or craze

Then a couple of dealers realized there was a gap--in supply. So they made lenses. from the same poly that Lucas had used.

I am a carguy---------
check the cars I collect. Top quality. RR, Pierce Cad V12/V16, early Porsche, Clenet, Excalibur, Duesenberg.
This was a hobby.---I am not in the lens business----

If your car is important to you--
If you want quality
If you want your brake lights and night running lights to be seen--get mine.

If you want to save a few bucks--get other ones.
I have lots of RECENT testimonials

SILVER CLOUD and SI; Some S/CII and SII ONE PIECE tail lens (AMBER or RED) L553
$240 a pair all correct numbers and BRIGHT colors
Better than original!!!!

SILVER CLOUD II and III TAIL LIGHT LENSES
(2 piece)---REPRODUCED--by hand---QUALITY FIT
TOP AMBER cd2256 $210 pair
TOP RED cd2257 $200 pair
BOT RED cd2258 $200 pair
REFL (PLAS ONLY) $ 60 pair
THIS IS A ONE-TIME ONLY PROJECT
to replace non-existent factory items--
do not confuse with cheap repros--
I made these by hand--using TOP polymers--with expensive DYES, not tints

ONE PAIR NOS round reflectors LUCAS NEW $140!!!! SOLD

Rolls Royce and Bentley Tool Kit Evolution

The way things were: At least for Rolls Royce and Bentley, at the end of WWII.

WWII ended in 1945.
VERY little was done by English and U.S car makers to plan, or design post-WWII cars.
Except for Ray Loewy at Studebaker, who had very little military work.
A lot of plants in England were destroyed.
SOOO--early post WWII cars were warmed over pre-WWII.
RR and Bentley were made in the same factory.
Virtually the same, except for badging, and carbs. (grille and hood shape).
The tool kits were stacked in a stores area.
When a standard steel car was ready, a kit was grabbed, and placed with build sheet, O/M and paperwork, wrapped in plastic, and sent to a dealer.
For coachbuilt cars, a kit, and O/M was grabbed, wrapped in plastic and fastened to the cowl. Since no body or interior was present. The coachbuilder chose WHERE to install the kit. Same for RR/B. Some coachbuilders built custom toolkits (half circle affairs the fit in the spare wheel. They had a tool-kit DELETE order).
So the kits were the same, and removed from the same stores. The early 1946-1948 kits had straight , black bakelite handles, and some had no Schrader tyre valve tools, since the Kismet tool had the screw-in valve tool. The Schrader tool was added sometime in 1948, to REPAIR the valve. Also, the 2 styles of boxwood drivers replaced the black ones.

Rolls Royce and Bentley Tools

I am amazed how many people are selling incomplete, incorrect and substandard toolkits. For important collector cars, I have learned that it is vital to use the proper repair parts, and keep the proper accessories. Some car owners bemoan the loss of value of their car, after the have cut every possible corner. I invite comments and dialogue, from anybody.

Pre War Car Lighter History

About 1920 auto makers installed lighters in cars. The cars finally started to proceed at a velocity that would extinguish a match. The lighters were open-face clip on units. About 1923 a few makers installed the coiled and spring loaded cord units. This was done because a lot of folks were used to striking a match, and discarding the burned detritus. So occupants, front and rear, had kept the habit, and threw out the lighters. The car makers then installed the cord units.

By 1929 the habit of discarding lighters had waned. Some car makers went back to open face clip-on type. Dashboards became modern, with standard fuel gauges, and some temperature gauges (instead of motometers). Cats eye lighters, with pins to retain the lighter were developed. At the appropriate temperature, the eye would glow. These units were common, mostly in Senior cars until 1936. Casco then invented the pop-out spring loaded lighter. Some of these still had the eye.

GM offered the Casco eye lighters as accessories. After WWII the eye became redundant, and was eliminated. A few English motorcars (Jag 120) kept them. Since the late 1940's cars have had a variety of chrome knob lighters. Quite boring. I think.

The above is true for Pierce-Arrow, Packard, Auburn, Duesenberg, Lincoln, Cadillac, Lasalle, Buick, Marquette, Studebaker, Oldsmobile, Marmon, Franklin, Stutz, Peerless, Hudson, Graham. If you are looking for replacement lighters, email me for pictures at RoyAJudd@aol.com.